Opinion: Enigmatic Limbo of LVMH consumerism and Black Designers

Fashion is a discipline of art. After all, art is “the expression or application of human creative skill and imagination”. Or at least that’s what google says. Different disciplines of art can cross over as well. For example, Stravinsky’s rite of spring was not only the quintessence of Avant-Garde orchestral music but also for ballet. In conclusion, an artist can specialize in multiple fields. If they’re capable. Stravinsky was a revolutionary artist that defined an era, Rihanna on the other hand, I think should stay solely in music. after all; dressing well does not equate to being a good designer, or even a mediocre one at that. It requires a vision that the mass majority does not possess, including Rihanna. So let’s ask the question, why does Rihanna’s Fenty brand exist? Why is it owned by LVMH? Simple answer: Because fame sells. I will now ask my question: is art made to sell? Or is it made to express? In my personal opinion, it is the latter. However, if you ask LVMH, it's the former. To provide context, LVMH, otherwise known as "Moët Hennessy – Louis Vuitton" is a French multinational luxury goods conglomerate, and the biggest in the world at that. In simpler terms, a corporate juggernaut that dominates almost every market it competes in. So, it's a conglomerate, meaning made up of many companies. So how many companies does LVMH own? In total, 75. In the realm of fashion, 17. Many of these are distinguished and prestigious houses to say the least, with houses such as Louis Vuitton, Dior, Berluti, Céline, Givenchy, Fendi, Loewe, and... Fenty? 

Martine Rose S/S 19

A-COLD-WALL* S/S 19

Compared to many of these houses, Fenty seems out of place. Sure, one can claim that it is because the history of Fenty is not yet established. However, it is safe to say that the future success and "legacy" of Fenty (if it happens) can be summed up with three key components. Rihanna's fame, her race, and the fact that it is owned by LVMH. The first two being the leverage, the last one being the impetus. Furthermore, it tarnishes the future success and potentials for other black designer who does not have the opportunity or leverage that Rihanna and Virgil had. I suppose my criticism can be split into two parts. The ethics of LVMH using race of designers as a marketing point, thus making mediocre POC designers in charge at LVMH's companies tarnish the future legacy of genuine upcoming black talents. The mass majority will look at the bland designs of Louis Vuitton and Fenty and form a preconceived notion that all black designers create lackluster pieces. To be put simply, they don't deserve the success that was handed to them and it is detrimental to other POC designers. So who are the genuine POC talents that I mentioned in the previous paragraph? Two names immediately spring to mind. Samuel Ross of "A-Cold-Wall", a utilitarian and futurist brand and Martine Rose of "Martine Rose", a humbled abstract brand. Both are London based independent fashion houses that are quickly gaining traction in the market and climbing the ladder of status. Samuel Ross, a former intern at the successful luxury streetwear brand "off-white" studied graphic design and fine arts at De Montfort University. Many critics regard him at a higher status than his former employer Virgil Abloh of  Off-White Louis Vuitton and has major awards and recognition from LVMH, Forbes, Vogue, ANDAM, and more. Martine Rose studied fashion at the prestigious Middlesex University London and launched her own successful brand in 2007. 

Fenty Debut Collection

Meanwhile, Rihanna although very successful in her music career, has no background in art or fashion. So why exactly is Fenty's simple brown parka worth $1,360? Sure it's reversible but so is Uniqlo's which costs $30. The Material isn't anything innovating or revolutionary either. That's the marketing power of LVMH and Rihanna. LVMH is a "Luxury Brand Conglomerate" which puts Fenty under that umbrella as well. With the luxury label, comes luxury prices regardless of the lack of workmanship or artisanal values behind the pieces. This is the reality; if we strip Fenty of Rihanna's fame and the fact that it is owned by LVMH, it isn't anything special. It would not be nearly as hyped and it would not be successful either. We've seen it before elsewhere and it's stale. But she is getting the praise anyways. Yet around Rose and Ross, the mass majority is silent. The leverage of prior fame combined with mediocrity is ultimately detrimental to other black designers. Also have we ever considered how appointing mediocre POC designers under massive brands is rather a marketing move rather than artistic reasoning? It's all a media stir over appointing an ethnic minority which in the end just means more money for LVMH. 

In the end, I think Rihanna is solely a musician and not a designer. I think that her music is enjoyable and she has earned her fame for a reason. Yes she dress well but her red carpet presence should not the warrant to be granted a prestigious position in the same realm as the fashion giants such as Hedi Slimanne, Haider Ackermann, and Kim Jones. Rihanna's possible success with Fenty will not set a proper precedence and it will not pave a path for future POC designers because her position was handed to her out of status, not earned.