Runway Analysis: Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus, SS18

Campy, unubiquitous, grotesque, vibrant, flamboyant, perhaps even outright insane. Comme des Garcons’ top line, the only one designed by the founder Rei Kawakubo, “homme plus” is unique to say the least. Perhaps even disturbing, especially to the “virgin eye” of fashion. Rei Kawakubo however, is different to the rest of the industry. Every runway show, there is an ambiguous description of the show and designs which are provided by the designers in order to provide context and explain the subtle allusions made in the show. These are called “shownotes”. Generally speaking, shownotes are quite esoteric in nature; designed to be appreciated by “cultured” crowds. Revealing a pretentious nature within the fashion industry. For instance, Rick Owens, an American designer’s show notes are symbolic and aggressive in stature. Such as this excerpt from his womens spring summer 2019 “BABEL” collection shownote; “TOWER OF BABEL… TATLIN’S TOWER… HOPE, DREAD, SERENITY, NIHILISM, MY NEEDLE ALWAYS SEEMS TO BE QUIVERING BETWEEN THEM”. However, in contrary to most designers such as Rick Owens, Rei Kawakubo prefers one simple line. No description of the fabric sources. No metaphors or overcomplicated symbolisms. Merely one simple line. Which in this case was “It’s what’s inside that counts!” which one can immediately detect as a cliche line that is prevalent in our society. However, upon closer inspection we can see how that sentiment is expressed within the runway show not only through fabrics alone, but also in the “catwalk” of the models as well.

    The first aspect to note is that the garments are worn inside out. More specifically her suiting. Which is seemingly the most explicit of Kawakubo’s interpretation of her one line. Context to note here is that tailoring plays a massive role within the high fashion community. Designers such as Alexander McQueen in the 90’s, Tom Ford’s suiting and Alessandro Michele in Gucci are especially known for their impeccable tailoring for their suits all in their respective unique, yet aesthetically pleasing way. Reflective upon these designers, suiting and tailoring are incredibly important and taken seriously within the realm of high fashion. Yet, there is Rei Kawakubo who almost seems to hyperbolize and make such a sacred aspect of fashion comical in a sense. Breaking the pretentious orthodox precedence set by designers of the past as well as today. Using sparkly glitter-esque fabrics in bright neon colors as well as bold prints such as cheetah and leopard which in turn contradict and seemingly mocks the “boring” suiting we have seen before. That is without mentioning the cut of the garment itself. To illustrate; there are no trousers within the show at all, only shorts and skirts. Kawakubo intentionally chose the most rigid and restricting part of fashion to make playful, like spraying graffiti on a buddhist temple. It is indeed a criticism of orthodox fashion, but how does it relate to “what’s inside counts”? As aforementioned, the garments are indeed inside and out. In a traditional bespoke suit jackets, the unlined ones always cost more despite lined jackets having more materials that are often considered luxurious such as silk. That is because an unlined suit jacket illustrates the inner workings of a suit in how it is constructed and stitched. In this show in particular, it was designed to make the inside of the jacket as beautiful as the outside so that it can be worn inside out, showcasing the flamboyant patterns. Which is not only expensive but incredibly time consuming as well to produce. The jackets in which they are presented are demonstrating that the most beautiful part about a garment is the attention and details that are often invisible to the eye which can be showcased by turning it inside out, presenting its beauty. Or simply, “it’s what’s inside that counts!”.  

    Beyond flipping the garments inside out, Kawakubo has showcased instances of word plays in her one liners. For example, there are multitudes of ways that something on the inside can be presented to be visible to the eye. One can wear a blazer the correct way, however, the liner of the blazer can extrude from where the sleeves end. Therefore what is on the inside counts in a sense that the material on the inside should be considered when evaluating an object. Beyond blazers altogether, what is on the inside can matter even within a shirt. Not in the sense of material composition and raw market value alone, but in a sense that something on the inside can act as a keystone in terms of structure. Which is exactly what is depicted within the second look of this page. The shirt, although hard to see, is essentially built of 3 layers. With an embroidery inside of the shirt. Between the two layers and the embroidery acting
as the middle layer, the middle layer is what keeps the shirt together. Otherwise it would be merely incohesive pieces of fabrics. What is on the inside is what gives the shirt structure and thus existence. Therefore value.

The last interpretation goes beyond the clothes themselves and utilizes the models as mediums. Before the show has began, there was only one instruction given from Kawakubo. “Do whatever you want”. The models are no longer the slave to the corporation but rather an individual that is demonstrating the clothes. Through this, there were interesting behavioral patterns being evident. The true personality of the models were showcased with some being shy and standing together with their friends awkwardly, some did not know what to do and did just a catwalk and showcased the inside of the jackets, some who were confident began dancing and laughing being themselves and having fun. The final portion to Kawakubo’s show is that we as humanity and our values are exuberant because of our unique inner workings psychologically. Each individuals are unique and their own mind too can be embroidered and flamboyant on the inside. When one is given their opportunity to be liberated is given, we showcase our beautiful, unique embroidered minds and reflect it for the world to see. It is beyond clothes, but the nature of humanity as a whole. What gives us inherent value of existence is our consciousness. It’s what’s on the inside that counts.